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March 2004 

 

... Continued

After dumping our overnight gear at the frozen tarn below the glacier, we donned our lighter packs and skinned up towards Matterhorn Peak.  With my total lack of sleep (remember I have a four week old baby at this point) and abysmal conditioning, I quickly fell to my natural spot as the last in the group.  I found myself counting 50 steps at a time before I would allow myself to rest.  The only problem with this plan was that I felt like barfing after the 25th step.  Dan was way out in front heading towards the multitude of chutes coming down from Matterhorn Peak.  Blaine peeled off to the left and climbed up a steep face that looked like it had some nice snow.  Matt hung back and took some photos.

At the base of Matterhorn, Chris and I held a conference:  which chute were we going to ski?  Since he had already done the East Couloir, Chris was eyeing the chute on the west side or the "Ski Dreams" couloir on the east shoulder of the peak.  I had already done Ski Dreams and to me the West Couloir didn't look as attractive as the longer East Couloir.  While we sat there debating it, our decision was made for us as Dan marched up the East Couloir without a rest.

Chris and I started up the chute, following the bootpack that Dan had kindly laid down for us.  The snow conditions were nothing to write home about, or if you did write home about them you would have nothing good to say.  Pockets of windbuffed powder served only to conceal the evil crust and ice that lurked underneath.  Less than enthused by the conditions, Chris suggested we turn around.  No way, I said, I wanted to keep going.  My determination was fleeting -- we went about 100 feet higher before I wussed out and changed my mind.  Truth be told, I was completely exhausted.  Normally I am charging up the peaks, but today I just didn't have it in me.  To continue onward would have guaranteed a quality barf session back at the tent, so I threw in the towel.

 

Note:  clicking on any photograph will present a full screen version.

Up Towards Matterhorn.  Since I'm so out of shape, I got a lot of great shots of the group from way behind them.

Approaching the Peak.  Chris rounding the bend above the glacier.  West Couloir is on the right side of the peak.  East Couloir is mostly hidden on the left side.

As we were skinning up the steep apron, we fell into the shadow of the peak.  I got some cool photos of the sun going behind the crest while Chris and Dan skinned up towards the East Couloir.

 

 

 

Sunset on the Dragtooth.  (photo:  Mmcpheet).

 

Dan the Lung, Part II.  While Chris and I were toiling around in the lower third of the couloir, Dan was marching right up it.  He is the small speck at the top of the chute.

 

(photo:  Mmcpheet)

 

 

 

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