October 2001 

 

Note:  clicking on any photograph will present a full screen version.
	Resting below Whorl.  Here's a gratuitous self-timer shot of me taking a rest back down at the bottom of the chutes.
	Matterhorn Peak.  Back at camp after descending Whorl, I set my sights on the higher but less interesting Matterhorn Peak.  This is a shot of the SE slope, seen from my camp near Horse Creek Pass.  From here, it is probably best to ascend up the right side of the large buttress below the summit block.  The left side is full of deep sand and micro-scree (although coming down this way makes for a very rapid descent).
	East couloir.  I scrambled over to the edge of the east couloir of Matterhorn, a renowned destination for expert backcountry skiers.  Looking down, you can see the Petite Capucin, the lower Horse Creek drainage and (in the distance) Bridgeport Reservoir.
	Summit block.  The only real challenge to Matterhorn Peak is the summit block.  Because I stuck to the right side in order to get a glimpse down into the east couloir, I had to hunt for the supposed class 2 route to the summit.  After searching around some, I lost my patience and simply climbed up a moderate class 3 pitch to gain the summit ridge.  On my descent, I found the easiest route to the summit ridge would have been to climb up diagonally well to the left of the actual summit.
	Summit ridge.  Once on the ridge, you walk up to the exposed summit ahead of you.  The north arete drops off directly in front of you, and the east couloir falls away to the right.

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